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Sweet, and how do you do it for your fork? If your actual number is different than your target number, increase or decrease your air pressure and redo the sag measurement procedure until you get it in range. Once again with the Hightower example, if that distance measures 16mm and the stroke is 55mm, it's 16/55=.29, or 29% sag.Ĥ. Once you’re off the bike, measure the distance between the o-ring and the seal of your shock and divide that number by your stroke length to get the percentage, which is your amount of sag. Next, carefully get off your bike without bouncing-you can use your brakes now if you need to. Then, slowly and carefully reach down and push that o-ring up against the body of your shock, still with your fingers off the brakes. Bounce up and down a few times without holding your brakes to get your suspension to settle. Mount your bike and assume a balanced, descending position-don’t over exaggerate it, but stand up like you’re about to fly down your favorite descent. Ensure both your fork and shock lockouts levers are set to fully open, and position yourself next to a wall, or something that you can lightly lean against.ģ. Also, put any items you carry in/on your bike in place as well–this includes water bottles, and items in your Glovebox internal storage compartment. Make sure you’re dressed in your riding kit and gear-sag is very sensitive to weight, so if you normally wear a pack filled with water, strap that on along with your helmet and riding shoes before you jump on your bike. So grab a ruler and we can get started.Ģ. You know that little rubber band-looking thing on the shaft of your rear shock? It’s an o-ring, and it's used to measure your sag. That’s all fine and dandy, but how do you get this number for your rear shock? 1. Compression damping controls how fast the suspension can compress, or essentially, how quickly it can respond to an impact, while rebound controls how quickly your suspension recovers from an impact. Further, it also controls the way it compresses during impacts-faster = less damping, slower = more damping. The damper is what keeps the spring, whether air or coil, from sending us over the bars every time the suspension rebounds from an impact. Damping is what controls your suspension by adjusting how oil moves through the valves inside of your suspension. Sticking with the Hightower example, it features a 210 x 55 shock-55mm of stroke and 210mm of total length.ĭamping – All suspension (forks and rear shocks) has two basic components, a spring and a damper. Shocks are measured by total length (eye-to-eye) and stroke (travel on the shock). Knowing how much stroke your shock has is important because it will let you translate a percent of recommended sag to an actual number you can measure. While a Hightower, for example, has 145mm of rear travel, the shock only has 55mm of stroke. Shock stroke – For a rear shock, Shock Stroke measures how much total travel in millimeters that your shock has–which is different than how much travel your bike has. If you're running a coil shock or fork, it's adjusted by changing out the spring itself for one with the correct spring rate, which is measured in pounds. With an air shock, it's adjusted by increasing or decreasing air pressure. – Seat struts should be removed or loosened.Sag – Sag is the amount suspension travel used with just the rider's weight on the bike. – Axle Type A should be installed (soft). – Rear ride height should be as low as possible. – Rear wheel hubs should be of the shortest length. – Seat should be lower than the factory recommends, as far as 1/2″ below the frame rail. – Camber should be set at -1/2 degree to 0 degree. The following settings are recommended as a starting point for a dry track with much grip, perhaps one that has a lot of rubber laid down. – Rear torsion bar should be in, positioned in either the flat or vertical location. – There should be at least two seat struts on each side of the seat. – Axle type B should be installed (medium). – Rear track should be set just below the legal limit, within the rules. – Rear ride height should be as high as possible. – Rear wheel hubs should be medium to long.
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– Seat should be set according to factory recommendations. – Weight Distribution should be 43.0% front, 57.0% rear, and 50/50% side/side. The following recommendations should aid in this. The attempt here is to gain more grip from the kart. These types of tracks are often referred to as “green,” given the inherent lack of grip in them. The following settings are recommended as a starting point for a dry track with little grip. As ever, it is important to remember that technical articles represent the opinions of the author, and that these submissions are intended to be a starting point for the racer headed towards building his or her own knowledge base. Here is a quick-guide for the novice karter learning how to adjust his/her chassis.